At last – the essential guide to Edinburgh. Read on to get the low-down on Death By Chocolate (with a fishy twist...) in Scotland's capital and the insiders' tips on how to eat like royalty. Just make sure you've left enough time to climb the city's 350 million year-old volcano (don't worry, it's extinct) and check out the £1 million in cash on show in the Museum on the Mound; all in all, if you're after rich rewards, Edinburgh is the place to come.